The Omega Speedmaster Professional has a history deeply intertwined with space exploration, cemented by its role on the lunar surface. But within the Speedmaster lineage, the Calibre 321 holds a particularly revered position. This legendary movement, powering the early Speedmasters, was discontinued decades ago, leaving a void filled only by the later, more prolific Calibre 861 and its descendants. Now, Omega has resurrected the Calibre 321, and this review delves into the experience of wearing and appreciating the new Speedmaster Calibre 321 ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001.
A Faithful Recreation: The Case and Design
The case of the new Speedmaster Calibre 321 ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001 is a masterful piece of horological engineering. Measuring 39.7mm in diameter and 13mm in height, it perfectly replicates the iconic "straight lug" case used on the first three generations of Speedmaster watches. This is a crucial detail, setting this model apart from its modern counterparts and establishing a direct lineage to the watches worn by astronauts. The subtle curves and the precisely executed lugs create a classic, timeless silhouette that transcends fleeting trends. This is not merely a reissue; it's a respectful homage to the original design language. The difference from the later, more broadly shouldered cases of subsequent Speedmaster generations is immediately noticeable and appreciated by aficionados. The smaller diameter, while potentially a concern for some used to larger modern watches, sits beautifully on the wrist and offers a pleasing sense of vintage charm without feeling diminutive.
The dial, depending on the specific edition, often showcases a rich, textured appearance, echoing the vintage aesthetic. The applied indices, often in luminous material, stand out sharply against the background, ensuring excellent legibility. The familiar Speedmaster sub-dials for the chronograph functions are perfectly proportioned, maintaining the balance and symmetry that define the watch's design DNA. The hands, too, are faithful reproductions of the originals, contributing to the overall sense of authenticity. The attention to detail is extraordinary, from the subtle engravings on the caseback to the carefully selected materials. Omega has clearly invested considerable effort in ensuring that this watch feels as close to the originals as possible without compromising on modern manufacturing techniques.
The Heart of the Matter: The Calibre 321 Movement
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